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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.